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Safety Message: Clutch maintenance involves handling components coated in engine oil, which can be slippery and flammable. Ensure the motorcycle is secure on a center stand. Use a parts tray to organize the small springs and bolts, as losing a component inside the crankcase can cause catastrophic engine failure. Always wear eye protection when handling compressed clutch springs.
The Yamaha YBR 125 clutch is a robust "wet" multi-plate system, but over time, the friction plates wear down or the springs weaken, leading to "clutch slip" (where the engine revs but the bike doesn't accelerate). This 2026 guide covers the removal process and the essential tools needed to refresh your transmission.
1. Essential Clutch Tools & Parts
Opening the right-hand crankcase requires specific gaskets and specialized tools to hold the basket in place. These eBay resources are the gold standard for YBR owners:
Complete Yamaha YBR 125 Clutch Plate Kits – Includes friction plates and usually heavy-duty springs.Universal Clutch Hub Holding Tool – Essential for loosening the center nut without damaging the aluminum basket.Right-Hand Crankcase (Clutch) Gaskets – Never reuse the old gasket; it will almost certainly leak oil onto your exhaust.
2. The Removal Process
Drain the Oil: Remove the 19mm drain plug. Note: You can technically tip the bike onto its left side to avoid draining, but it is much safer and cleaner to drain it.
Remove the Kickstart & Cover: Take off the kickstart lever (if fitted) and the brake pedal spring to clear the way for the right-hand engine cover.
The Springs: Loosen the four 10mm bolts holding the clutch springs in a criss-cross pattern to prevent the pressure plate from warping.
The Center Nut: Bend back the lock-washer tab. Use your Clutch Holding Tool to secure the inner hub while you use a 19mm socket to remove the main nut.
Inspection: Pull out the friction and steel plates. Look for "glazing" (a shiny, burnt look) on the friction material or "blueing" on the steel plates from overheating.
3. Common 2026 Pitfalls
The "Mushy" Lever: If your clutch feels soft, check the
Clutch Cable for fraying before you tear the engine apart.The Centrifugal Filter: While the clutch cover is off, you MUST clean the centrifugal oil filter nearby. This is the only time you have access to it, and a clogged filter will ruin your new clutch.
Thrust Washer: There is a thin washer behind the clutch basket. It often sticks to the back of the hub with oil—don't let it fall into the sump!
4. Reinstallation & Pre-Soaking
Pro-Tip: Before installing new friction plates, soak them in clean 10W-40 engine oil for at least 2 hours (preferably overnight). Installing "dry" plates will cause them to burn out almost immediately upon the first start.
Torque the center nut to 60 Nm and the small spring bolts to 8 Nm – 10 Nm (do not over-tighten the spring bolts, as they snap very easily!).
or a boa gripper tool
below photos are uploaded to go towards the complete engine strip down post when ready .
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